ARTEFACT GALLERY #13

Põline põlleline

Proposed by: Kristi Jõeste (lecturer in Estonian native textiles)

University of Tartu - ESTONIA
Technical Specifications

Name

Põline põlleline/ Ancient Apron

Tipology

Weaving, clothes, apron

Authorship

Astri Kaljus

Date or period:

Reconstruction was made in 2024.

The remains of the original apron, dating back to the 12-13th century, were found during the archaeological excavations in Valjala, Saaremaa island, Estonia (AI 7585, grave no. XVc, finds 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213).

Materials:

Wool, bronze

Techniques:

Weaving, metalwork (bronze spiral tubes)

Country/ region:

Estonia

The apron is an example of how this presumably ritual object could have looked like in the 12th-13th centuries. The reconstruction is based on the copper vessels found during archaeological excavations in Valjala, Saaremaa, which were found at the knees and thighs of a buried woman. It can be assumed that it was a front apron similar to several other found in Saaremaa before. In this area, it was customary to decorate clothes with copper, and thanks to the preserving qualities of the metal, some textiles were also preserved. The reconstruction consists of 2/2 twill apron fabric, brick-patterned sound cords and vases. The bronze spiral patterns were recreated by Jaana Ratas.
Nowadays, the apron can be seen more as an eye-catching garment, similar to jewellery or other accessories. It can be worn at formal events or even on stage to give performers strength and shine. Anyone who values heritage can adorn themselves with an ancient apron, regardless of age and gender.

DETAILS

An Ancient Apron, detail. Photo by Kristi Jõeste.

Inspiration

Fragments of the apron AI 7585, grave no. XVc, 212. Photo by Jaana Ratas.

Fragment of the apron AI 7585, grave no. XVc, Photo by Jaana Ratas.

Location

Additional sources:
Kaljus, Astri. 2017. “Villaste kangaste kudumise võtted 11.-17. sajandi Eesti arheoloogiliste leidude põhjal ja nende taasloomine tänapäeval.” [Woolen Textile Techniques from 11–17 Century Based on Estonian Archaeological Findings and Their Reconstructing Today] Master’s thesis, University of Tartu Viljandi Culture Academy. http://hdl.handle.net/10062/56838.
Saaremaa Museum. 2023. Face to Face with Medieval Saaremaa Islanders. Kuressaare: Kuressaare linnusmuuseum.