ARTEFACT GALLERY #1

Tilled Land Coat

Proposed by: Maria Neo (PhD Researcher in Design)

Universidade de Aveiro - PORTUGAL
Technical Specifications

Name

Casaco Terra Lavrada / Tilled Land Coat

Tipology

Coat

Authorship

Designed by Helena Cardoso handcrafted by artisans of Capuchinhas group

Date or period:

90’s (20th century)

Materials:

Brown and Black Burel (Portuguese Woolen Felt)

Techniques:

Tailoring, Burel embroidery (layering), Burel buttons

Country/ region:

Portugal, Castro Daire, Campo Benfeito (Montemuro Mountains)

The coat is crafted in burel, a woollen fabric traditionally used for capes worn by rural workers, reflecting the region’s abundant natural resources and harsh weather. Its geometric designs are inspired by the stages of ploughing, symbolising the journey from a human entry into the field to the soil’s preparation for sowing. This agricultural story is conveyed through the rhythmic pattern of the designs. Fine black lines are embroidered onto the brown burel, while larger black cut-outs, interwoven with brown, create dynamic wave-like forms. The coat’s colours reflect the natural tones of local sheep’s wool, with burel-covered buttons to match. The collar, inspired by a woman’s shirt, adds a refined, less rustic touch to the design.

DETAILS

Tilled Land Coat detail. Picture taken by Helena Cardoso, from her private collection, 90’s.

Tilled Land Coat hanged in the wall of Capuchinhas workshop. Picture taken by Helena Cardoso, from her private collection, 90’s.

Inspiration

Tilled Land in Montemuro region. Picture taken by Helena Cardoso, from her private collection, 90’s.

Location


The selection of this artefact is the responsibility of designer Maria Bruno Néo and is part of her doctoral work ‘A HISTÓRIA INCOMPLETA DO DESIGN PORTUGUÊS: CONTRIBUTOS PARA A INSCRIÇÃO DA DESIGNER HELENA CARDOSO/THE INCOMPLETE HISTORY OF PORTUGUESE DESIGN: CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE INSCRIPTION OF DESIGNER HELENA CARDOSO’ supervised by Professors Susana Barreto and Luís Mendonça, both from the Faculty of Fine Arts at the University of Porto/Portugal.