The coat is crafted in burel, a woollen fabric traditionally used for capes worn by rural workers, reflecting the region’s abundant natural resources and harsh weather. Its geometric designs are inspired by the stages of ploughing, symbolising the journey from a human entry into the field to the soil’s preparation for sowing. This agricultural story is conveyed through the rhythmic pattern of the designs. Fine black lines are embroidered onto the brown burel, while larger black cut-outs, interwoven with brown, create dynamic wave-like forms. The coat’s colours reflect the natural tones of local sheep’s wool, with burel-covered buttons to match. The collar, inspired by a woman’s shirt, adds a refined, less rustic touch to the design.
DETAILS
Tilled Land Coat detail. Picture taken by Helena Cardoso, from her private collection, 90’s.
Tilled Land Coat hanged in the wall of Capuchinhas workshop. Picture taken by Helena Cardoso, from her private collection, 90’s.
Inspiration
Tilled Land in Montemuro region. Picture taken by Helena Cardoso, from her private collection, 90’s.
Location
The selection of this artefact is the responsibility of designer Maria Bruno Néo and is part of her doctoral work ‘A HISTÓRIA INCOMPLETA DO DESIGN PORTUGUÊS: CONTRIBUTOS PARA A INSCRIÇÃO DA DESIGNER HELENA CARDOSO/THE INCOMPLETE HISTORY OF PORTUGUESE DESIGN: CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE INSCRIPTION OF DESIGNER HELENA CARDOSO’ supervised by Professors Susana Barreto and Luís Mendonça, both from the Faculty of Fine Arts at the University of Porto/Portugal.